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Paris’ Promenade Plantée: The original High Line park

Promenade Plantée Paris elevated park

New York may have its new High Line elevated park on a former railway line in Manhattan, but Paris got there first back in 1993 with the Promenade Plantée. Stretching for almost five kilometres across the 12th arrondissement, this narrow raised park follows the route of the old Vincennes railway line which closed down in 1969. Previously the line had linked the Place de la Bastille to eastern Paris for 100 years, but it was replaced by a new RER route so became redundant and was abandoned. Ten years on the area was an eyesore with overgrown tracks and crumbling viaducts and was scheduled for demolition. But it was saved and turned into an urban park known as the Promenade Plantée – or planted walkway – a secret garden above the city where you can walk or sit and relax among the trees.

Walkers on the Promenade Plantée Paris elevated park

Walking along the Promenade Plantée

The Promenade Plantée starts just south of the Opéra Bastille, with steps leading up from Avenue Daumesnil above the Viaduc des Arts. Here the  red-brick vaulted archways beneath the old railway tracks have been restored and renovated. The 64 arches now house shops and galleries celebrating the art and crafts of the area. These range from porcelain painting workshops and sculpture galleries to antique shops and artisans crafting handmade musical instruments. You can watch some of the craftsmen at work, pick up some unique gifts, or just stop for a drink in one of the cafés.

Viaduc des Arts shops in Paris

Shops and restaurants along the Viaduc des Arts

The first section of the Promenade Plantée runs above the viaduct for around 1.5 km and is lined with trees and plants – bamboo, roses, wisteria, cherry and maple trees – mixed in with archways, benches and narrow ponds. You get a different perspective on the city from above, looking down on passers by and up at the art deco detailing on some of the surrounding buildings. Though sometimes the trees block out the city entirely and you can almost forget where you are. At the end of the viaduct you pass through an apartment building and head down into the Jardin de Reuilly. This used to be an old freight station but now has a big lawned area for picnics, crossed by an arching metal and wood footbridge. There’s also a café, and it’s edged by walkways and terraces lined with sculptures.

Arches and sculptures along Promenade Plantée Paris

Arches and sculptures along the Promenade Plantée

The next part of the route runs through some modern buildings (we thought we might have got lost here but keep straight on) until you pass through a railway tunnel and back into parkland. Here you’re below the level of the surrounding streets in a railway cutting, with a parallel cycle route which runs through a canopy of trees and ivy-covered tunnels. At the end of the route a metal spiral staircase leads up to Boulevard Carnot, from where you can walk to the Bois de Vincennes – a huge park covering almost 1000-hectares of land in the east of Paris.

Autumn on the Promenade Plantée Paris

Autumn leaves on the Promenade Plantée

For years Paris’ Promenade Plantée was the only elevated parkway in the world but the idea has spread, not just to  New York’s High Line but there are also plans for similar parks in Chicago and Philadelphia. But if you want to see the original or just want to escape the crowds and see a different side of Parisian life, then take a walk along the Promenade Plantée.

101 Comments Post a comment
  1. I’m definitely going to take a look at that next time I’m in Paris

    November 3, 2011
  2. What a gorgeous park! Love the fall colors.

    November 3, 2011
  3. I want to go THERE!

    Beautiful pictures — looks like gorgeous weather, and such vibrant colors…
    :)

    November 3, 2011
  4. hmunro #

    Wonderful post, Lucy! Wonderful *blog,* too — I’m looking forward to reading much more from you. Congrats on being Freshly Pressed!

    November 3, 2011
  5. beautiful. love this. thank you for posting. http://valentinedefrancis.blogspot.com/

    November 3, 2011
  6. I just love everything about Paris! And btw, I love how you layout your post. :)

    November 3, 2011
  7. That’s a great post! Very interesting. I didn’t know anything about this until I read your blog.

    I recently made a post about the High Line in New York City at http://germch55.wordpress.com/2011/07/16/high-line/. Please feel free to check it out.

    November 3, 2011
    • Thanks Gerard, I’ll check it out. I’m going to New York next week so will have to go and compare the High Line to the Paris version while I’m there!

      November 3, 2011
  8. This looks beautiful – I hope to check this out next time I’m in Paris.

    November 3, 2011
  9. I love the colours!

    November 3, 2011
  10. It is indeed a very nice place to visit in Paris. Every time I go to Paris I like to go there and take some peaceful time off to relax.

    November 3, 2011
  11. Fabulous piece Lucy. What a coup to find somewhere like this to write about. If I make it to Paris it will absolutely go on the list. Congrats on being FP- richly deserved.

    November 3, 2011
  12. Sarah #

    Oh wow, this looks great, will definitely have to visit this the next time I’m in Paris, and also the one in New York too…ah, I’m feeling inspired, thank you!

    November 3, 2011
  13. You inspire me to travel over there. :)

    November 3, 2011
  14. Beautiful post. Note to myself: must go to Paris next spring.

    November 3, 2011
  15. Meg #

    How have I not been here yet? I plan to go next week. Done and done. Great post! Thank you so much for sharing!

    November 3, 2011
  16. Beautiful. I’d love to visit one day.

    November 3, 2011
  17. nearlynormalized #

    Fabulous!!!!

    November 3, 2011
  18. Lovely pics. I really want to go back to Paris.

    November 3, 2011
  19. Yes! I’m so glad the Promenade is getting some hype among all this High Line madness! I absolutely loved it when I was there- glad you felt the same way.

    November 3, 2011
  20. Thanks to everyone for all the lovely comments. Being on Freshly Pressed has been a bit overwhelming – I’ve had more views today than the whole of last month! Thanks to everyone for stopping by and glad you enjoyed the post.
    Lucy x

    November 3, 2011
  21. Aww I LOVE all those fall colors! Paris, promenade, and walking paths in nature…what more could a guy ask for?

    November 3, 2011
  22. The photos are beautiful. All of the Fall colors are glowing in these pictures

    November 3, 2011
  23. Excellent post!

    I was there just last month and was lucky enough to find this hidden walkway. I couldn’t help wondering at the time what it must have been like to live in one of those apartments when the trains were still running there. It was such a narrow path between the two buildings!

    I turned around at the little carousel just past the suspension bridge thinking that was the end of the path. Now I’ll know better for next time.

    Thanks for sharing this.

    November 3, 2011
  24. beautiful illustrations. im sure, that would be a perfect place for me to think.. c:

    http://travellersdiningdepot.wordpress.com/

    November 3, 2011
  25. Great post – I had no idea this existed! I definitely just added this to my list of things to visit the next time I’m in Paris :)

    November 3, 2011
  26. What a beautiful place

    November 3, 2011
  27. These are great photos! Absolutely love them!

    November 3, 2011
  28. Mel #

    Beautiful colours! The place looks lovely

    November 3, 2011
  29. I HAVE to go to Paris someday.

    November 3, 2011
  30. Beautiful photos!!!

    November 3, 2011
  31. viviennemackie #

    Lovely post. We have been there, but it was in summer and our pics are not nearly as lovely.

    November 3, 2011
  32. Beautiful pictures. And, for me, rememberances from last week ago in Paris. Around 14 Arrondissement, of Lost Generation (Hemingway, Miller, Fitzgeral, Stein, etc). Thanks
    http://mamcasz.wordpress.com

    November 3, 2011
  33. I will definitely have to check it out next time I am in Paris. Looks great.

    November 3, 2011
  34. Lovely blog. Have you seen ‘Midnight Paris’ (the movie)? You should, it captures the spirit of Paris very well.

    November 3, 2011
    • Thanks. No, I’ve not seen it yet – I’ve heard that it’s very atmospheric though so will be a good one to look out when I’m back home and missing Paris!

      November 3, 2011
  35. What a great post about a place I knew nothing about. I’m sorry I missed it on my trip to Paris last month but will visit next time.

    November 4, 2011
  36. I need to win the lottery so I can go to Paris and see the Promenade Plantee. Thank you for sharing some wonderful pictures.

    November 4, 2011
  37. Those Parisians get a lot of things right. Great city planning idea–a beautiful and peaceful park.

    November 4, 2011
  38. joahnadiyosa #

    Now I love Paris more! Couldn’t wait to set my feet on these gorgeous place! Thanks for sharing!

    November 4, 2011
  39. Oh I love these pictures! I feel like I am there, such a gift to see the fall colors of the Paris park in your photos. Thank you so much. You gave me such a special gift tonight!!!!!

    November 4, 2011
  40. Wonderful idea! With a little creativity… you can turn around almost anything! It became not only useful, but also enjoyable!

    November 4, 2011
  41. I knew that Paris is a magnificent town, but I never think that this town is that magnificent! Ow, love all the pictures! ;D

    November 4, 2011
  42. How wonderful. I love seeing old areas being rejuvenated for public use as parkland. It seems to make it all worthwhile.

    November 4, 2011
  43. I miss Paris!!! Thank you for those lovely pics…ah, Paris…once you go, it just never leaves you.

    November 4, 2011
  44. Lovely! I look forward to enjoying this secret garden next summer.

    November 4, 2011
  45. maydelory #

    Martha Stewart posted on her blog how great the New York HIgh Line looked when it first opened. I’d love to see both, Paris and New York.

    November 4, 2011
  46. I love Paris, would love to go back someday! ‘Midnight in Paris’ was such a teaser of a movie for the truly wonderful city of lights and romance

    November 4, 2011
  47. all I want to say is I wish I could see it first hand…… :)

    November 4, 2011
  48. Kai #

    Wow! some lovely shots you got here.
    http://embraceyoumag.com

    November 4, 2011
  49. Beautiful. I’d love

    November 4, 2011
  50. Very niceful blog…wonderful pics :)

    November 4, 2011
  51. Paris is one of my bucket list in this world..wish i could discover more about this place..thanks Lucy for sharing this amazing photos of Paris

    November 4, 2011
  52. Have you seen the film ‘Before Sunset’ from 2004? Where Jesse (Ethan Hawke) and Celine (Julie Delpy) fall in love with Paris as a backdrop. It’s such a good film, due to very realistic dialogue, and of course the stunning scenes of Paris in the background. I believe the two walk through this very same place you are describing in your post.
    Either way, it is definitely a must go for next time I’m in Paris. Looking forwards to it!

    November 4, 2011
  53. wow, I didn’t know there is such place in paris. Looks beautiful for a walk :)
    i wish to share with you my experience of paris:
    http://lookorsee.wordpress.com/2011/06/15/made-in-paris/

    November 4, 2011
  54. Thanks for this photo essay. It’s great to how older structures can be rehabilitated in creative ways.

    People where I live (Vancouver, Canada) are currently discussing the future off a highway viaduct (not nearly as elegant as this one Paris) if and/or when it is decommisioned. I hope we have the same level of ingenuity in positively changing one of our blighted urban spaces.

    November 4, 2011
  55. Bravo pour cet article. Habitant pas trés loin de cette promenade et la fréquentant souvent, je trouves les photos magnifiques et le compte-rendu parfait.

    November 4, 2011
  56. Beautiful blog :)
    Cheers!

    November 4, 2011
  57. Awesome !
    I live only 15km away from Paris and never paid attention to this part of the capital.
    Sometimes we don’t see what is just in front of us.

    November 4, 2011
  58. I cannot wait to visit this this weekend! Love your blog – am now following! Thanks so much for posting this.

    November 4, 2011
    • Thanks – and fingers crossed you get some nice weather this weekend!

      November 4, 2011
  59. fabulous place to visit, would love to go there

    November 4, 2011
  60. wow nice pictures I liked all of them

    November 4, 2011
  61. Great photos!! I love all the colors and patterns!

    November 4, 2011
  62. Wonderful article and beautiful photos! I’m visiting Paris in a couple of months and I’m sure to make a beeline there! ;)

    November 4, 2011
  63. First of all, your photos are just beautiful! Secondly, thank you for bringing more awareness of the Promenade Plantée! So many people do not know about it and NYC keeps getting all kinds of credit for High Line, even though it’s not an original idea… ;)

    Great job and congratulations on being Freshly Pressed! :)

    November 4, 2011
  64. Wonderful post, I am headed to Highline this weekend! I’m researching the reuse of elevated infrastructure for an upcoming conference. Thanks for this post for some history + perspective!

    November 4, 2011
  65. great photos…i have visited Paris more than twice and i have to say that it`s tremendously inspiring. Your article remind me of those moments…

    thanx

    November 4, 2011
  66. thanks for this awesome reminder. Ive been living nearby for almost a year now and still havent made it there! I will now, while all the leaves are still on the trees!

    November 4, 2011
  67. Awesome. I’ve been posting a series of photo safaris based on my trip through Europe last month. I missed this little gem while I was in Paris.

    Cheers,

    ‘C

    http://retropopplanet.com/

    November 4, 2011
  68. Thanks for this post–I learned something new about Paris, and congratulations on being freshly pressed! I just went to High Line Park in NYC last weekend and loved it, but I never knew about this park. Now I have one more reason to visit Paris again!

    November 4, 2011
  69. I wish to see Paris before this year is over so thanks for sharing something beautiful that I must see when I go there

    November 4, 2011
  70. Interesting post! I had no idea about this “Paris Highline” and that the story is similar to that of NYC’s Highline!

    November 4, 2011
  71. Beautiful pics! I love the first one. Next time l want to go there.

    November 4, 2011
  72. Been to Paris several times. I know there are still soooooo many more places to see! Look forward to being there next time.

    November 4, 2011
  73. Hi, I am really taken by this high level park, though the studios and shops are also as appealing. How feasible is it to walk the park in one direction and back by street level. It sounds loads of fun!

    November 4, 2011
    • Hi, the most picturesque part of the route is the raised bit above the viaduct, and that’s about 1.5 km long. So it would be no problem to walk along this raised section which runs as far as the Jardin de Reuilly, then walk back the way you came but at ground level to check out the shops!

      November 4, 2011
  74. Don’t you just love Paris in the fall? Love the photography and the blog. Keep it up!

    November 4, 2011
  75. Thank you for this great information, great to find a place like that in the city, that otherwise I would never have known about.

    November 4, 2011
  76. Absolutely gorgeous. Hidden places are always a work of art! When (and if) I make a trip to Paris, I’ll definitely have to check out this beautiful place.

    November 4, 2011
  77. Great post and pics! Sorry I missed this on my recent trip. Congrats on freshly pressed!

    November 5, 2011
  78. QQ #

    Ooh I defininately need to check this out whenever I go back to Paris. Thanks for sharing!

    November 5, 2011
  79. hey very nice place to visit all pictures are awesome

    November 5, 2011
  80. Looks awesome. When I finally get to Paris I must check this out

    November 6, 2011
  81. I like you blog layout and all pics you take in this post.

    November 7, 2011
  82. As Gerard stated earlier, you can find something similar in New York City. I posted some pictures in my blog at http://marcellux.wordpress.com/. If you want to discover the High Line, take your time and have a coffee afterwards.

    November 7, 2011
  83. I really love the colors of the trees in the Fall (:

    November 7, 2011
  84. great post!! loved it

    November 8, 2011
  85. Wow, I live in NYC and I am jealous of Paris! Looking better than NYC! -Mark http://www.markinthecity.com

    November 8, 2011
  86. We were there in the spring, love your fall colors.

    November 13, 2011
  87. This makes me want to go back to Paris so badly! I will check this out next time I go!

    Au Revoir!

    http://delinquencyreport.wordpress.com/

    November 14, 2011
  88. I LOVE this place so much! I visited the Promenade Plantee before I heard anything about the Highline Park – understanding that it was the inspiration is what made me so excited for the Highline.

    November 17, 2011
  89. What a lovely series of photos, Lucy. Viaduc des Arts is now on my list of places to visit next time I go to France.

    November 27, 2011

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. Paris « flealeon
  2. Paris’ Promenade Plantée: The original High Line park | On the Luce « NY Newsman
  3. The Promenade Plantée in Paris « Americanexpatinfrance's Blog
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  5. Autumn in Paris: How did I do? | On the Luce
  6. Walk the line: New York’s elevated High Line park | On the Luce
  7. On the Luce in 2011 | On the Luce

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