The underbelly of Paris: Touring the sewers
So I know I said I wanted to see some of the more unusual sights of Paris, but aren’t the sewers a step too far? After visiting another of Paris’ underground attractions, the catacombs, I heard that part of the sewer system had been turned into a museum – Le Musée des Égouts de Paris. It might sound like a strange place to visit, but if you’re looking for an alternative to the usual museums and sights, interested in engineering, a fan of Les Misérables (the sewers were the hideout of Jean Valjean), or just looking for somewhere cool to hide out on a hot day, you might be tempted to head down into the underbelly of Paris.
Some of the underground tunnels you can walk though at the museum
Paris’ first sewers were built in 1370 – before then waste ran down an open channel in the middle of the road. The early sewers were still open and didn’t do much to help prevent disease. So in the 1800s, Baron Haussman designed a new system with separate underground tunnels for drinking and non-drinking water as well as waste. These tunnels ran for over 373 miles by 1878 and hundreds more miles were added over the next few centuries, forming a network below the surface mirroring the one above, right down to the blue street signs. “Paris has another Paris under herself; a Paris of sewers; which has its streets, its crossings, its squares, its blind alleys, its arteries, and its circulation, which is slime, minus the human form” (from Les Misérables). The sewers have always interested visitors to Paris and tours started back in Victor Hugo’s time. Then you could travel around the tunnels in carriages pulled by a locomotive, and later on you could even take a boat trip along the sewers. But it’s all a bit more sanitary now.
Some of the museum’s exhibits
The entrance to the sewer museum is near the Pont de l’Alma bridge. After buying your ticket at the ticket office on the surface, you descend down stairs to the large underground galleries. The tunnels are quite wide and spacious, in contrast to the more claustrophobic tunnels of the catacombs; built of modern concrete rather than the old stonework you might imagine. When you see some of the machinery used you realise why they need to be big – like the huge metal balls used to clean the tunnels which push through any blockages by a build up of water pressure behind them. Other exhibits show tools and machinery used in the past. And as you can’t have a sewer without rats, there’s even a few stuffed ones in a glass case. It’s not as dirty – or smelly – as you might imagine, though you’re probably best to follow the instructions to wash your hands after you leave. There’s even a gift shop at the end where you can satisfy all your waste-related gift needs to commemorate Paris’s less glamorous but vitally useful side.
One of the underground ‘road’ signs, and some stuffed rats
The entrance to the Musée des Égouts de Paris is by the Pont de l’Alma, opposite 93 Quai d’Orsay. The nearest Metro station is at Alma-Marceau. The museum is open Saturday–Wednesday, 11am to 5pm (or 4pm in winter) and entry costs €4,50. Tours are self-guided, but you can also take a tour with a guide, though these are only offered in English during the summer.
Oh my gosh. I love underground tours! I’ve been to the catacombs twice and just took and underground tour in Cincinnati. (Not of sewers; of beer tunnels.) This does seem decidedly unique. I’ll have to do this next time I’m in Paris.
A beer tunnel tour sounds great! I’ve been in a few wine cellar tours but might have to look out for one of those.
Sounds interesting and glad to hear it isn’t too stinky, Think I might put it on my Paris list for next time.
You do get the odd waft but the tunnels the museum are is in are fairly separate luckily!
Reblogged this on UrbanBilingual.
Thanks for reblogging!
thanks for the tip!
I love this! How the hell did they decide to make a museum in the sewers! I really wanted to do a cataphile tour – apparently a huge amount of cataphiles just roam the underground pathways in paris – having picnics, secret anarchist meetings, film nights, etc. I always believe that people should be aware of the more unknown qualities of paris so, awesome post!
http://wandersoftheworld.net/2012/08/09/5-best-films-about-paris/
So weird isn’t it? But there were quite a few visitors so it wasn’t a bad idea! Like the idea of a cataphile tour to complete the set of underground adventures, may have to look out for that on my next trip.
It looks so much cleaner than I expected! You’ve definitely told us about some of the more unusal sights to see in Paris
Each visit the choices get a bit weirder! I’ll have to see what I can come up with next…
I have been on this kind of trip in Seattle, it was a really cool thing to do, didnt know they have one in Paris, next time when I’m over
I didn’t realise there were tours like this in other cities – something to remember when I finally make it out to Seattle!
This was one of my daughter’s favorite sites when we went to Paris, and makes for a good negotiation point. “If you are patient in the Musee d’Orsay, we’ll take you to see the sewers afterwards!.”
It definitely seems to be a popular one with kids – though they usually love the disgusting stuff!
This is wonderful! Are you happy for us to reblog?
Thanks – and you you’re very welcome to reblog.
Thank you
This sounds like a really interesting thing to do!
It’s definitely a different view of Paris!
That’s got t be one of the most bizzare tours I’ve heard of!
It shows you can make a tourist attraction out of pretty much anything!
Very interesting and unusual
Thanks Ana, it was definitely a unusual perspective on Paris!
My kids would love it! Added to the to do list. Thanks!
It’s the sort of things kids would definitely love!
This is a unique and different from the museums I’ve visited.Looks interesting.I’ll definitely visit this museum on my next Paris vacation.Thanks for sharing Lucy!
It’s certainly an unusual one! Hope you enjoy it if you do visit.
Fascinating! I’ve heard of underground subway tours, but never the sewer! I’m an urban planner, so I do remember learning in grad school that modern city planning all started because of the need to deal with the poor public sanitation in rapidly-growing cities (late 19th/early 20th centuries). I’ve got to check this out when I’m there!
As an urban planner sure you’ll be really interested in it all. It’s a pretty unusual thing to see on holiday but it makes a good story!